Fwd: Trip Log #13: Akureyri, Iceland July 30, 2009

Dear friends,

 

We have now started to have a little decrease in brightness at night.  Temp was still only about 55F.

 

Akureyri, the main seaport and chief town of northern Iceland, is situated 160 miles northeast of Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland.  The harbour, at the south end of the 36 mile Eyja Fjord and near the mouth of the Eyjafjardara River, is sheltered by a gravel pit to the north and by mountains on the other three sides.  Akureyri began as a trading center just before the Danish Trade Monopoly of 1602 came ino effect.  The town was used for commercial enterprises, but no one lived there.  By the late 18th Century the town had accumulated 10 residents, all Danish traders.  By 1900, Akureyri numbered 1370 people.  It was the herring fisheries that contributed significantly to the cities growth.  Fishing is still imporant, but the emphasis is now on trawling, canning and freezing large fish.  Akureyri has the largest retail cooperative society in Iceland and contains the majority of Iceland's cooperative industries, including weaving, food processing, brewing and tourism. 

 

"Iceland" is not a complete misnomer - the island is a generally cold place - but since it is an active geothermal zone, nature gives it plenty of heat.  The unusual geography spawns geysers and the vast tundra is prime nesting ground for some of the world's rarest birds.  Iceland is a leader in conservation and ecological stewardship - often leading the world in responsible environmental policy.  Even contemporary Akureyri's industrial port is clean.  With a population of just over 15,000, the community enjoys a surprisingly mild climate due to the small nation's natural geothermal heat.

 

The welcome center with flags up, including a courtesy US flag, is always nice to see when we arrive at a port. 

 

The 4 hour tour we took today was called "Akureyri Falls and Farmland.  It is always interesting to get out of the city and see some of the countryside.  Leaving Akureyri, we crossed the waters of he fjord and traveled along the slopes of Vadlaheidi Mountain, via the Fnjoskadalur Valley to Vaglaskogur Forest - one of Iceland's rare woodlands which is part of an extensive soil and vegetation reclamation project.  You will see in a photo the extreme fog we travelled in for a while.  Fortunately it did burn off after we got thru the "mountain" pass. 

From Fnjoskadalur, we traveled to the historic Godafoss - waterfall of the heathen gods - which figures prominently in Iceland's 12-century Book of Settlement.  History tells us that in the year 1000, Porgeir, chieftain of Ljosavatn district, and lawspeaker of the Althing, was entrusted with the momentous task of deciding whether Icelanders should adopt the Christian faith.  When his decision was formally accepted, he went home and threw his statues of the pagan gods into the waterfall. Godafoss (Waterfall of the Gods) is said to derive its name from this event. It is 12 metres high.  We were dropped off up near the falls and then had a nice little walk along he path above the river and across the pedestrian bridge to the bus which had moved down by the hotel/restaurant/gift shop area.  It was really beautiful along there.  All along the route we saw many waterfalls coming down the mountains.  For a short drive we got off the main highway and drove on a dirt road where we encountered the sheep  crossing the road.  Almost thought we had somehow transferred to New Zealand. 

 

After this drive thru the country, we came to Laufas, a 19th century farmhouse built in the traditional Icelandic style of stone and turf - now one of the last turf farms in the country.  The interesting regional museum, which is set up inside the turf buildings which are also in the process of being remodeled, has the original implements and equipment so essential to life in former centuries, and a beautiful country chuch (1865). 

 

We then returned to Akureyri for a short panoramic sightseeing tour of the city, including an outside view of the modern church and a stop at the Botanical Gardens.  We had a lovely walk thru the gardens. 

 

Hope you enjoy the photos.

 

Jan and Dick   

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Fwd: Trip Log#17: Kirkwall, Orkney Islands, Scotland Aug. 4, 2009

Dear Friends,

 

Just north of Scotland is a group of islands called the Orkney Islands.  Scotland's Orkney Archipelago includes more than 90 islands and crags, but only 20 of them have permanent communities.  It takes a hearty soul to brave life in the far-flung North Atlantic region, but steadfast islanders claim they would live nowhere else.  The islands got their modern name when early sailors mistook the smaller cliffs for whales, but evidence of colonization dates from prehistoric times.  Stone villages (some of them extremely well preserved) date from around 4500BC.  Later (Iron and Bronze Age) relics have also been found, along with Scotland's enigmatic stone brochs. 

 

Kirkwall, first established by Norse invaders on the island referred to as "Mainland", has been the capital of the Orknery Islands for at least 900 years.  Formerly known as Kirkjuvagr (Church Bay), it was named after a church built approximately 1040 to honor the memory of King Olaf Harraldsson, who later became the patron saint of Norway. Currently, stately St. Magnus Cathedral dominates the town.  The Old Norse streets of Kirkwall are very narrow, to protect the buildings from gale-like winds.  But don't get the idea that they're pedestrian walkways.  That myth is dispelled when a car comes roaring down the street. This bustling market town with its paved main street, and outstanding attractions is one of Scotland's most engaging districts.  The magnificent St. Magnus Cathedral takes pride of place in the town center, while the nearby Earl's and Bishop's Palaces are definitely worth the venture.  So whether you're in the mood for a simple sroll through town or an adventurous history lesson, Kirkwall is able to please all of its visitors and will leave you with a gratifying experience of Scotland.

 

Today we took a tour called Leisurely North Coastal Drive.

It was really a beautiful drive thru the countryside and we did see some very interesting sights.  First we passed by the waters of Scapa Flow - the scene of the momentous happenings during World War I. This is a huge bay where, at the end of the First World War, the German High Seas fleet was interned, pending Armistice negotiations.  More than 70 German battleships, cruisers and destroyers were deliberately scuttled rather than allowed to fall into British hands, turning Scapa Flow into an area of immense interest. 

 

We first stopped at the Stones of Stenness, thought to be a ceremonial burial site or a lunar observatory. I have included a photo of a seal out on a rock that was nearby these Stones.   

 

Next we stopped at a small country hotel in the northern part of Orkney where we had morning tea and scones.  After that, on to the Brough of Birsay.  This is an old Viking settlement whose structures date from the 9th to the 13th centuries. In the photos you will see that the  Brough where the lighthouse and the structures are was at the time we were there separated from the mainland because the tide was up and the "causeway" was under water.  Dick did walk down to the beach and onto the rocks but could not go out onto the little island. 

 

We then drove out to a point overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. It was called Yesnaby.  You will notice the spectacular high cliffs there.  The wind was blowing off the land so the waves were not as high as they would have been had the wind been blowing in from the sea.  Nevertheless, it was an amazing sight. 

 

We then passed by mysterious Ring of Brodgar, a perfect stone circle which retains 27 of its original 60 stones, erected with mathematical precision some 5,000 years ago. 

 

On the way back to the ship, we were given a quick drive thru the city of Kirkwall.  This was not on the original tour description but the guide decided we had time.  That was nice so we at least got to see what it looks like.  We were docked about a 15 minute bus ride from town so would not have time to go back there.

 

We thought the countryside was really pretty here.

 

Enjoy!

 

Jan and Dick 

 

 

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Fwd: Trip Log #15: Reykjavik, Iceland Aug. 1, 2009

Dear Friends,

 

Well, here we are in Reykjavik, Iceland.  Since the late 19th Century, Denmark has allowed some autonomy, but it was not until 1944 that the official Republic of Iceland was established.  Disputes with the EU over fishing rights continue to divide the small nation from that body and many Icelanders want to continue whaling in the face of world opposition to the practice.

 

Reykjavik was first settled in AD 874, when Ingolflur Arnarson threw the carved pillars from his Viking high seat over the side of his boat and vowed to settle wherever they washed up on the shore.  This happened to be at the site of modern-day Reykjavik.  Reykjavik, or "Smoky Bay", was named after the steam rising from the geothermal vents in the surrounding countryside.  At first glance, Reykjavik can seem more like a small town than a capital city, but by Icelandic standards, this is a teeming metropolis.  More than 62% of Iceland's entire population resides here and the city is expanding rapidly; swallowing up towns and cities in every direction.  However, Reykjavik was a second tier city all the way through the end of the 19th Century, with only 2,000 inhabitants.  Upon Icelandic Independence in 1944, this number swelled to 45,000.  Generations of young architects have filled the capital with intriguing modern buildings, which sit neatly against the ancient wooden houses of the old town.  Now Reykjavik is upbeat, with a vibrant art and music scene, great restaurants, and a famously uninhibited nightlife.  During the long summer nights the streets are packed with young people who spill out from the bars and clubs into the "midnight sun". 

 

Here we got off the ship and got on the double decker hop-on-hop-off City Sightseeing bus.  It was about an hour tour around the city.  One of the things Iceland has done is harness it's geothermal steam to use for heating and power.  They are able to take care of about 50% of their needs this way and hope in the future to build up to 100% self-sufficiency in  this area.  We ended up not getting off the bus anywhere, since this bus only came around every hour.  It was a very interesting city in that it all seemed rather new and modern.  One interesting thing we saw (and I have included a photo of it) was the John Lennon memorial skylight tower.  Yoko Ono did this in his memory. We were told that there is a strong beam of light coming out of the top of this tower that shines to the heavens. 

 

When we returned from the city, there was a beautiful bouquet of flowers in our room that were sent from our good friend and Customer Relations Manager, Susana Beleo. That was so very nice of her and so unexpected of course. I am sending a photo of how they looked when delivered and the second one is how they look now after all the beautiful yellow lillies have opened.   

 

That night at dinner, since it was our 45th anniversary, they brought us a beautiful and delicious cake and sang their Indonisian "congrats" song to us.  And as many of you know, Dick does tricks at the table each night (all card tricks these days), so that is why he is holding up his cards in the one photo.

 

Enjoy.

 

Jan and Dick 

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