Saturday, August 29, 2009

Trip Log #30: Copenhagen, Denmark Aug. 19

Hello all,
 
So, here we are in Copenhagen.  Denmark's known history began 250,000 years ago when nomadic hunters began to travel across Jylland (Jutland).  By the 7th century, the "Dane" tribe crossed the Kattegat from Sweden and adopted Denmark ("Dane's land") as their new home.  It was the age of the Viking, and tribes consantly battled other Western European clans for control of the strategic North Sea.  The Skagerrak that separates Denmark from Norway and the Baltic region were naval battlegrounds. 
 
During the following centuries, Denmark struggled to maintain a window on the world, and by the 14th century, King Valdemar IV united Sweden, Norway, Iceland, Greenland, and the Faroe Islands from his Danish base.  Sweden broke ranks and fought for several centuries while Norway remained under Danish rule until 1814.  Iceland did not gain independence until 1948, and Greenland and the Faroe Islands are still autonomous Danish provinces. 
 
Copenhagen was a fishing village until the middle of the 12th century.  Because of its harbor, it soon became a place of commercial importance.  During World War II, Copenhagen was occupied by German troops from April 1940 until May 1945.  Today, Copenhagen is the principal seaport and commercial center of Denmark, and a large proportion of the country's foreign and domestic trade passes through its port.  The population of the metropolitan area is over 1,350,000.  Copenhagen, long noted internationally for the manufacture of fine porcelain ware, is also famous for the production of hand-wrought silverware.  When most Americans think of Denmark, they think of Hans Christian Andersen, the Danish writer of fairy tales in the 19th century.  His adopted city, Copenhagen, erected a statue of one of his most beloved characters, the Little Mermaid, at the entrance to the harbor.  Made of cast bronze, the statue reflects the Danish love of simple, fluid line and form. 
 
Here we did the Hop-On-Hop-Off bus again.  They had two routes and we did both of them.  Of course, we got off and walked to the Little Mermaid statue to take a photo.  She was just down the pier a little ways from our ship.  It is a very nice city.  One place we went by was called Christiania which is a little community of Hippies.  It was developed back in the 60s by the hippie crowd and still exists as a "free spirit" place of living.  They said that a great deal of pot is smoked there even though it is illegal in Copenhagen.  The city is trying to close down this community. 
 
Hope you enjoy our photos.  Most all of them were taken from the bus.  The pier where we docked was very nice and had a long row of shops that were fun to explore. 
 
Jan and Dick
 



Trip Log #29: Visby, Sweden Aug. 18

Dear Friends,
 
I will tell you all about Visby.  Sounds like a wonderful and very  interesting place.  However, we never got to go on shore there.  It was to be a tender port.  When the captain arrived at the designated anchorage, it was quite rough.  And the prediction for afternoon was increasing winds and waves that would make it really bad for getting on and off the tenders.  Therefore, the captain decided to cancel the stop at Visby.  I took a few photos from the ship as soon as I realized we had turned around and were leaving but we were already kind of far away.  And as you can see, it was a cloudy, kind of rainy day.  Oh well, next time.
 
The town of Visby is located on the northwest coast of Gotland island.  Hoards of coins and other treasures found on the island indicate its importance in maritime trade as far back as the Bronze Age.  The Vikings were both a warrior and farming society from this region now known as Scandinavia.  In the middle ages, Visby had many splendid churches and elaborate fortified walls.  It was a rich and important member of the Hanseatic League, a commercial federation of European cities.  The Vikings also displayed an ability to mobilize economic resources and to dominate a hostile landscape.  These abilities can bve seen in their great fortified camps, like that at Visby, where hundreds of soldiers and traders lived. 
 
A living historical showcase, Visby's magnificent St. Mary's Cathedral dates from the 12th century when the port was the center of the Hanseatic League.  In 1470, it was expelled, however and a bitter feud between Visby and Lubeck merchants ensued.  Security only really returned when Sweden assumed control of Gotland in the 18th century. 
 
An excellent example of a fortified medieval commercial city, Visby retains many historic buildings.  Age and fine architecture have elevated the old city to be inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage site. 
 
So, I think it would have been a very nice city to walk around.  
 
Jan and Dick  



Friday, August 28, 2009

Trip Log #28: Stockholm, Sweden Aug. 17

Dear Friends,
 
The history of Stockholm begins with a legend from the era of the Vikings.  It's said that Agne, a warrior king of the Ynglinga dynasty, married a chieftain's daughter named Skjalf after overcoming her father and fleeing with his friends.  Stopping to celebrate, he and his friends drank too much and Skjalf freed herself.  Help arrived and Agne was captured nd hanged, supposedly at the place which is known as Stockholm.  Legend aside, it is known that a castle and church were built here in the 13th century.  The church was dedicated to St. Nicholas, the Patron Saint of shipping and is referred to today as the Great Church.  In the 18th century Stockholm attracted many scientists and scholars.  It became a cultural, musical and dramatic capital.  During the last 100 years of Stockholm's history, the city has become industrialized, and the government has changed from a monarchy to a full parliamentary democracy.  Stockholm is built on fourteen small islands.  This 700-year old capital is one of the world's most attractive.  A green city, nearly a third of the Swedish capital is park land.  The name refers to the town beween the bridges.  Early homes were wooden buildings.  It was a crowded city, and after a few fires, combustible building materials were abandoned.  Styles remained much the same though, so old city's narrow streets and high buildings are still medieval in tone.  The city offers amusement parks, shopping, museums and fine architecture.  The layout of the city has been carefully protected by tthe town fathers, keeping thte town full of tree-lined streets, parks, lively squares, boulevards and playgrounds. 
 
The beautiful water approach to Stockholm passes through the beautiful archipelago that lines the Swedish coast.  More than 24,000 islands and islets, the chain stretches for miles along he Swedish seaboard.  Some of the islands are no more than cragy rocks jutting above the surface of the sea, while others are just large enough for a single cottage.  It really was a beautiful sail in and sail out.  I am sending a few photos of the archipelago.
 
We took a ship's tour that was to the Vasa Museum and then a bit around the old city with a stop on a high overlook. Since it was a morning tour, we stayed in town at the end of it rather than going back to the ship.  We were dropped off at the castle just prior to the changing of the guard.  This was a really beautiful ceremony that lasted an hour.  There were guards on foot, guards on horseback, and a band on horseback.  I am sending a few photos of that also. After the ceremony, we started walking back to the center of Old Town.  Unfortunately it began to pour rain.  We decided to go into the Grand Hotel which was nearby and "the" hotel in Stockholm.  They had a beautiful sidewalk restaurant that was glass enclosed so we got a table right next to the sidewalk. It also overlooked the harbor.  There were 8 cruise ships in Stockholm that day. One was anchored right downtown in the harbor, a few others were able to dock downtown, and the rest were at docks a couple miles away (as were we).  No problem though since they provide shuttle service from the ship to the town.  It rained off and on the rest of the afternoon.  After our lunch, it was time to go back to the ship so we walked over to  the shuttle bus and got back to the ship.  A great city!!!  
 
On 10 August 1628 the "unsinkable" Royal warship Vasa set sail on her maiden voyage and sank in the Stockholm harbor.  The most expensive and perhaps most lavishly decorated naval vessel Sweden had ever built, King Gustavus Adolphus' pride and joy, was to be the mightiest naval ship of the day.  Unfortunately, pride and a rush to get the ship afloat seems to have led to the disaster. (Many of you may remember that our daughter, Kristin, went to Gustavus Adolphus College in Minnesota.  Yes, it was named after this king as I recall.) Maritime and engineering knowledge were simply limited at the time.  The experience with the Vasa was a lesson that led to better subsequent design.  It was later learned that the engineers and others in the know had warned the King that it was not built correctly and was not seaworthy, but he wanted it and by a certain date, so he said GO.  Oops!!!  It had a way to tall stern castle and with all the wooden carved statues around it was way too top heavy!!!  Also, there were two rows of  cannon ports that were open. So, when it got out in the harbor and was hit by a big wind that rolled it on its side, the water rushed in the first row of cannon ports and filled the ship.  In 1956 Anders Franzen discovered the ancient ship and initiated one of Sweden's largest historical undertakings in marine archaeology.  It had been under the sea there in the harbor for 333 years but since the water was brackish it was preserved. The Vasa was found almost completely intact on the seabed.  The antique is one of the world's best preserved ships from that period.  The reconstructed vessel, 95 percent original, is splendidly adorned with hundreds of carved sculptures.  They even found sails in bags that have been taken out and are on display.  This was a really fascinating exhibit that we really enjoyed!!    As you can see from the photos, the ship is inside a building.  The mast tops are outside on display but we didn't see them.  I have a photo from afar. The only thing on the ship inside are the lower sections of the masts. 
 
Enjoy!!
 
Jan and Dick     



Trip Log #27: Vaasa, Finland Aug. 16

Dear Friends,
 
Sorry for the delay!  Since you have been following our itinerary, you know that we got off the ship last Sunday, Aug. 23.  We have been spending the week in London.  I thought I would have all these done by now.  Oh well, having too good a time here in London.  But not to worry, I will finish the trip for you!!!!
 
Vaasa (Swedish: Vasa) is a city on the west coast of Finland.  It received its charter in 1606, during the reign of Charles IX of Sweden and is named after the Royal House of Vasa.  Vaasa was an important place of governance when Finland was part of Sweden.  It started in the 14th Century when Korsholm castle was built near the village of Mustasaari.  Thanks to the sea connections, ship building and trade, especially tar trade, Vaasa flourished in the 17th Century and most of the inhabitants earned their living from it.  During the Finnish War, fought between Sweden and Russia in 1808-1809, Vaasa suffered more than any other city.  Ironically, the war ended with the Treaty of Fredrikshamn (September 17, 1809) - Vaasa became a part of the new Grand Duchy of Finland in the Russian Empire.  In 1852, a disastrous fire claimed nearly the entire wooden town, so residents had to rebuild.  The ruins of the church (belfry), school, and town hall tuin were left in tribute, but the new Vaasa was moved a few miles away. In its new location Vaasa became an important sea-faring city.  It had been renamed Nikolainkaupunki in honor or the Russian Czar Nikolai I.   When Finland proclaimed its independence in 1917 the name of the town was again reverted to Vaasa.  
 
As you can  see from the few photos, it was a very cloudy, cold, rainy day. It was sad since this was a "maiden call" for the Prinsendam to Vaasa.  In nice weather, there would have been probably a band and other welcome ceremonies.  Due to bad weather, there was nothing.  After we docked, we had intended to go ashore and walk around.  By the time we went to get off the ship, it was pouring rain.  So, we took a pass and stayed on the ship.  Many of our friends, including Wrenne and her sister, did go ashore and walk around. They said it was a nice place, worth coming back to on  a better day.  However, it was also Sunday so everything was closed.
 
Interesting note: the engines used on almost all Holland America ships are made here in Vaasa.    
 
Jan and Dick



Monday, August 24, 2009

Fwd: Trip Log #26: Helsinki, Finland Aug. 14

Dear Friends,
 
It was a beautiful day in Helsinki - high 60s - some rain later in afternoon.  Well, that is summer there!!!  This was our first time ever to Finland. 
 
Comprised of 60,000 lakes and bordered by water and land, Finland's history has been largely affected by its neighbors; Norway to the north, Sweden too the northwest, and Russia to the east.  Only independent since 1917, Finland has been ruled for hundreds of years by imperial powers; first by the Swedes and then the Russian Czars.  As early as the 12th century, the King of Sweden had annexed two large sections of Finland and by 1634 it was fully incorporated into the Swedish empire.  The decline of Sweden as a world power brought Russia into the picture.  At the conclusion of the Great Northern War in the 18th century, Russia ceded part of the Finnish territory.  Following another invasion by Russia in the late 1930's, the Finns were forced to sue for peach.  Helsinki, located along the southern coast of Finland, makes up the most populated, industrialized and richest part of the country.  A city of a half million people, Helsinki has a character quite different from the other Scandinavian capitals. 
 
Founded by King Gustav Wasa in 1550, the regal city was targeted to be a viable competitor against Tallinn as a favored Baltic port.  Dutch merchants had built up the Estonian city to capture lucrative St. Petersburg trade, and generations of Finnish merchants looked on with envy as their neighbor across the sea grew more prosperous.  When a tragic fire swept the Finnish port in 1808, the citizens seized the chance to modernize.
 
In 1812, Czar Alexander II moved the capital to Helsinki after a fire struck Turku.  Without its crowded pre-blaze wooden buildings, Helsinki was completely rebuilt.  The czar engaged German designer Carl Ludwig Engel to planhis new Helsinki as a spacious and elegant city.  Noted for his parks and squares, many of which display magnificent sculptures, Engel had a keen eye for the elegant lines of Eastern and Slavic architecture that Alexander favored.  Note the distinctive Russian influence in local design - Helsinki has often represented a "typical Russian town" in modern movies.
 
The city center is breathtaking.  From Senate Square, Helsinki Cathedral's landmark green domes can be seen for miles (I have photos of this cathedral).  It is a huge Lutheran cathedral.  In the middle of the square a statue of Alexander is a symbol of an otherwise unhappy historical period.  Movie fans will find the expansive square and its monuments familiar.  They were featured in the films: Reds, Gorky Park, and White Knights.
 
In the morning, Dick did a Helsinki by Bike tour.  I should have done it but was worried that it would be too hard.  It was not at all he said - mostly all flat and they stopped along the way quite a bit since it was a sightseeing tour.  I sent him with our little camera so he got some really great photos you will see.  The bikes were called Jopo - a Finnish-designed bike.  Created in the 1960s and designed as a simple, practical transportation that could be adjusted to fit a wide range of people, this bike has become an important part of Finnish culture.  Known as "everyone's bicycle", Jopos once were found in almost every Finnish family home and are now making a popular comeback. They toured all thru the city, parks, waterfront, residential and commercial areas.  They then went to Sibelius Park, a magnificent monument fashioned from steel pipes.  The work honors Jean Sibelius, Finland's most famous composer.  Sibelius was a tragic figure and lived much of his life fighting debt and addiction, but he also rallied Finnish nationalism and is remembered as a hero.   He had a great time on his bike trip. At the end, I took photos of their return.
 
In the afternoon we took a ship's tour called:  Helsinki Highlights & Country Home Visit.  We drove around the city a little seeing the highlights.  In winter, the harbor is frozen and is much of the Baltic, so Helsinki has huge ice breakers.  There is a photo of those ships tied up in the harbor.  We then headed out to the farming community of Sipoo.  There we stopped at St. Sigfrid's, the oldest church in the community, dating back to the 15th century.  We then continued our drive through the forest to a Finnish countryside home beside a beautiful lake.  We spent about an hour and 15 mins. there.  The lady of the house spoke beautiful English. The home and grounds had been in her family.  All Finnish homes have at least one sauna but they had one outside in a little separate building next to a little pond.  It was called a "smoker" sauna.  They use them every day year round.  In the winter, her husband cuts a hole in the ice at the bottom of the steps and she comes out of the sauna and takes a dip in the lake and then goes back into the sauna. She was showing us.  They served us tea, coffee, and some typical Finnish sweets-berry pie with homemade ice cream.  The home was beautiful.  They raised 4 children there and now their one son has a new home just on the next lot and they have one grandson.  We also had a lovely walk thru the woods and around the big lake there.  After returning to Helsinki, we stopped at the Rock Church (Temppeliaukio Church), which was magnificent. It is a Lutheran church (85% of the people in Finland are Lutheran). There was a natural, huge rock pile, that they dynamited out the center of.  The roof was made of copper wires in circles which is a fantastic acoustic conductor.  It was very quiet and peaceful to go in and sit down. They were playing some beautiful music which allowed for us to experience the wonderful acoustics!!!  After the church, we stopped at Senate Square where we viewed the beautiful big cathedral and the statue of Alexander.  Unfortunately we did experience rain in the afternoon, so some of the photos that I took thru the bus windows do have raindrops on them.  Sorry.
 
Enjoy!
 
Jan and Dick